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Thursday, June 30, 2016

Day 5: Animals galore



We are at the point on our road trip where we frequently ask each other "Where are we anyway?" and "What day is today?"  In fact, I just asked that question!  To answer that question, we are in Newcastle, Wyoming.  I'll apologize in advance if this post is disjointed and weird, but I am exhausted after a very spectacular day of driving and sight seeing.

Our day began at the Best Western Lee's Motor Inn in Chamberlain, SD.  We immediately crossed the Missouri River and continued on our way.  Our first stop was in Wall, SD, to visit the famous tourist attraction of Wall Drug.  This place is awesome, and if you are in the area, or even if you aren't-go here!  It's kitchy and cute and has a great history.  If you are afraid of missing it on your journey, don't worry.  We counted around 75 highway signs, which is part of the charm.  Lunch, donuts and picture taking later, and off we went to, yet again, find a letterbox.  This time we had success!  Go us!  (We also passed around 300 signs for other Wild West and Olde Tyme attractions, but didn't stop.

From Wall, we opted for the scenic route through the Badlands before heading to Mt. Rushmore.  If you haven't been to the Badlands-go.  It's so spectacular that I can't even imagine how to describe it.  Words and photos alone do not do it justice.  It's majestic, awe inspiring and a bit overwhelming all at once.

Though we had seen cows and horses galore on our journey today, DJ insisted that he needed to see some much more exciting animals.  Luckily for him, the second we crossed into Badlands National Forest, we found some big horned sheep!  We continued through the Badlands, stopping and taking pictures all the way, and decided to continue onto Mt. Rushmore since time was in our favor.  We had forgotten all about the switch into Mountain Time, so that was a pleasant surprise when it popped up.  Note: Unless you want to backtrack through the Badlands and go back to I-90 in Wall, you go through the park and through some very rugged areas.  One of the major roads we took wasn't paved, but a highlight were the cows less than 2 feet away from us.  We paused in the car and had a meaningful conversation with them. Most weren't talkative, but a few mooed back.

We avoided the tourist trap of Rapid City and ventured onward to Mt. Rushmore.  We found it!  We didn't find Cebula, but we can't all be Nicholas Cage. The village of Keystone is 100% touristy, but really cute.  Mt. Rushmore is smaller than it seems, but is still amazing. Our hike around the monument was a much needed stretch break, and the little museum that explained how it was constructed was super interesting. To be honest, if we had taken a trip just to see Mt. Rushmore, it might have been disappointing.  However, because it was on our way, it was well worth it.  We left Rushmore, found another letterbox, and took off, destination: Wyoming.  The Crazy Horse monument appeared on our left, but truthfully, it was nothing much.  I hope they can raise the money to finish it.

More cows and horses later, we entered the Black Hills. We saw a sign warning us about big horned sheep,  but those were not in sight. We did however see a jackrabbit and a fawn, making everyone happy.  Our goal was to reach Gillette, Wyoming, but Newcastle appeared and all my energy dissipated.  So, we found the cutest little hotel, family owned and just charming, and here we are! It was a long, highly productive day.

Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Day 4, where Barbara (me) indulges her inner 8 year old

Day 4

Glockenspiel
We started our day in New Ulm, Minnesota, which has a fascinating history. It was settled by a group of people from Germany via Cincinnati called Turners.  They essentially believed in free speech, free will and good health.  Though the town has grown and changed since then, New Ulmers still pride themselves on their German heritage.  We saw the Glockenspiel clocktower, but arrived 3 hours too early to hear it and see the figurines.  Alex was sad about that, so I guess he'll have a reason to return!  DJ enjoyed his run in the morning, taking a scenic jog run (his words) to New Ulm high school, where he made good use of their track.

After New Ulm, we meandered on Rt. 14, also known as the Laura Ingalls Wilder highway, and enjoyed the cows and ruralness. As DJ drove, we kept seeing signs for the Sodhouse.  For those of you who know me well, I'm an avid reader and one of my favorite authors is Laura Ingalls Wilder. I was introduced to her books when I was around Alex's age, and continue to read them until this day.  I knew that Laura's original dugout house (From the Banks of Plum Creek) no longer existed, so was curious about this Sodhouse.  We pull in (off of a dirt road) into someone's farm house.  There we met a lovely family from Maryland who was also taking a road trip, and then met the female owner of the Sodhouse, Virgina McCone and her adorable kittens.
Look close-there are kittens behind those stairs!

Prairie grasses
Soddy
 Mrs. McCone and her husband run the Sodhouse in addition to their farm, which is literally ON the prairie.  Mr. McCone built various outbuildings made of sod and logs, to honor the prairie pioneer lifestyle.  They used to rent a few of them out for overnights, but stopped doing so.  It was a quick detour, but well worth it!  Alex was totally fascinated by the kittens, the walls and the prairie itself.  I can clearly remember chapters in the Little House novels where people fear getting lost on the prairie.  Let me just say-you don't really understand that until you SEE it.  Miles and miles of deceptively high straws and grasses.   We didn't go into the Sodhouse, but just the ingenuity of the settlers to use the incredibly dense dirt & grass as bricks, and to do so by hand-wow.  Alex enjoyed the story of Laura and the time the oxen ran across the roof of their house and poked a hole through.

Off we went, intending to stop at Walnut Grove, MN, which is where On the Banks of Plum Creek actually takes place. The dugout is gone, as is Pa's wood house with glass windows, and upon more research, we realized that there really was nothing there of note that belonged to or was related to the Ingalls family.
One quick picture from the car sufficed, and off we continued.

Which books did YOU have? (I had the blue and the yellow sets)
Rt. 14 (still) took us into South Dakota and the town of Brookings.  Without even realizing it, we drove past the South Dakota State campus,  where Adam Vinatieri played football before playing for the Patriots.  De Smet, South Dakota was the next stop, where I really got to indulge my inner 8 year old. De Smet is SMALL and still very much a farming community.  We opted to skip the homestead museum and discovery center and went instead for the guided tour, where Marly took us through the Surveyor's house (By the Shores of Silver Lake), which was moved closer to town.


Alex grinding wheat
We also checked out the first De Smet school house, which had been converted back to it's original state after it was a residence for many years. True to form, the restoration included the loose seat, which got Carrie and Laura kicked out of school.  Explaining the concept of a 1 room school house to Alex (and other kids who listened in) was hilarious.  The lack of paper was also a novel concept to all.  A reproduction of Laura's first teaching schoolhouse (the Brewster house) was on display, and then we all
drove over to Pa and Ma Ingalls' house in DeSmet, which was built during Little Town on the Prairie.
The Ingalls house (not homestead)
Though I knew Laura considered her books to be a fictionalized account of her childhood, I still didn't realize that she never actually lived in that house, she was married 2 years earlier!  If you've read the books, it's the house where they built a special parlor room for the organ they bought for Mary.  Included in our tour were some discussions and visuals to mirror the books, like grinding wheat in a coffee grinder and living in a claim shanty.  Picture a California king sized bed. That's about the size of a claim
 Mary Ingalls' bead work
shanty, in other words, smaller than the motel room in which we are currently staying.   One quick tour of the museum and gift shop, and off we went, passing Lofton's general store, which is still there. (Most of the other buildings have signs in them telling what they were, but are now used for other things. Pa's 2 stores are gone.)  Another family was touring just as we were, and they had a son Alex's age.  They hit it off just fine, while the mom and I discussed how giddy we were to actually be visiting! where Laura! lived!  They were from Virginia, so we shared some of our road tripping stories.
Charles "Pa" Ingalls' original headstone

A few miles down the road is the De Smet cemetery, and of course, I couldn't resist this either.  Off we went to look at and pay our respects to some of the Ingalls family, including Ma, Pa, Carrie, Mary and Grace. We also saw the headstones of the Boast family, who are mentioned prominently.  Yet again, we made another failed letterboxing attempt, this time making friends with a charming couple from Michigan who were geocaching.  They tried to help us, but no luck, again.

The last part of our day was the most interesting in a way.  Our original plan was to drive to Kadoka, SD and spend the night. Well, it was 5pm and we were still 4+ hours off, so, we came up with a new plan. We'd stop in Huron for some dinner and drive as far as we could without feeling tired.  Throughout South Dakota, we amused ourselves by looking at the little townships and their population sizes and comparing them to something we knew back home-class sizes, grade/team sizes, etc.  Then, being a research addict, I'd look up the history of the townships and share some tidbits.  We continued to do this from De Smet to Huron, where in many cases, there were literally more cows than people.  So different and so interesting!  Huron was an interesting little town, but after a quick drive through, we opted to just keep going.  Just one of those weird feelings.  The next hour was spent driving straight through farmland and frantically searching maps for the names of villages that just might have a restaurant-enter Wessington Springs and the Springs Inn Cafe.  The food was good, Alex and I discovered the wonder of cheese balls. (Deep fried cheddar cheese!) and feeling better about ourselves, we drove on.
We saw cows.  Lots and lots of cows.  Many cows.  Cows!
Additionally, some huge wind farms which were surprisingly attractive to look at.
What became incredibly fascinating was the end part of our drive, which is where we are now in Chamberlain, SD.  

The transition to prairie Great Plains with cows to rolling hills and the Missouri River was nearly instantaneous. One minute, it's this:
and within a few miles, it was this:



Note the ominous storm clouds in the distance.  We were able to beat it out by 10 minutes. Go us!  The Missouri River valley is a sight to see-it's simply gorgeous and the town of Chamberlain is adorable.  I'd often considered giving it all up and moving to South or North Dakota, but today made me realize that total rural living is not for me.  I'd rather a small town, but driving 1+ hours to the grocery store (Walmart or Family Dollar)  is not appealing.  It's still awe inspiring though.



Daily Stats:
States: 2
Cows: Thousands. Some mooed at Alex. He mooed back.
Lutheran churches: 15
Signs for Wall Drug: 5
Suicidal birds: At least 20, including a pheasant.

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Day 3-corn, cows & custard

I'm a peach!
Day 3 started with a quick detour to Beyer Stadium, home of the Rockford Peaches. A League of Their Own is one of our all time favorite movies, so this was a fun side trip for us.  The original stadium was demolished about 30 years ago, but the park itself is still there and is now a high school and community ballpark.  The original brick turnstiles and ticket booth are still there, along with a nice plaque gallery discussing the history of the Peaches, along with some biographies of real Peaches, including Dottie, who was played by Geena Davis in the movie.  No sibling pairs like Dottie and Kit, but there was a Betty, an Ellen with blonde hair and an Alice who looked *just* like Alice from the movie. (The backup catcher who refuses to change her socks.)  It was uncanny, really.



Alex is a Peach!
Alex ran the bases and had a marvelous time for himself, and off we went. We tried yet another letterbox that was dedicated to the Peaches,  but it was removed. Oh well, again. 


$0.15 scorecards. Oh to have 1947 prices.






Back on the road we finished with Illinois and headed into Wisconsin.  We were convinced that it would be cow country, I mean, it is America's Dairyland, but we saw way more corn than cows.  Corn corn corn. It was beautiful and rural and flat.  As we were driving along, we saw some absurd billboards, including our personal favorite Tom Bartlett show, which was clearly advertised for miles....and miles.....and miles.  Apparently it is in Wisconsin Dells, which has an awesome name but looked to be just like North Conway/Niagara Falls. Beautiful, but 100% tourist trap, all the way down to the outlets.  We were slightly fascinated by the sign for Culver's restaurant chain, so we conveniently found one right around lunch time.  It's like a cross between Sonic, Kelly's Roast Beef and Fuddruckers.  You order at a counter, but the food is delivered to you.  The food was good, the frozen custard though-oh my word.  I had a concrete mixer with chocolate, peanut butter and fudge, and it was beyond awesome.  Also, special shoutout to the guy working the counter, who was entertained by our Boston attire and willing to volunteer some specialities for our culinary adventures, like DJ's butter burger.   Apparently, when the Brewers do terribly, it's perfectly okay to cheer for the Red Sox.  It is not, however, appropriate to root for the Patriots over the Packers at all.  DJ likens it to Red Sox vs. Yankees. There are somethings that are just plain sacred.



The mighty Mississippi
We crossed the Mississippi (and had a wonderful time spelling it over and over again)  and wandered into Minnesota, still on I-90.  Lots of construction, but nearly no slow downs.  It was surreal.  In true road trip fashion, we made a last minute decision to escape I-90 and take the more direct, yet longer route on Rt. 14.

 After two random stop lights, we blazed on to New Ulm on the most empty state highway during rush hour I've ever seen.
This is Rt 14 at 5:30. Where is everyone? 
By then we were in cow country, which was is just as rural and beautiful as corn country.  Other than the 2 laned paved road we were on, it has probably looked the same for 60+ years.  Alex's favorite part was the huge freight train we saw, at least 40 cars long, that was loading up fresh milk at one of the dairies.  Single freight lines are everywhere, which for a train loving family like mine, makes the ride much smoother.
Alex's super long freight train in the distance



So, here we are in New Ulm, Minnesota.  Priceline came through with a great deal on a hotel, and our room looks inward toward the indoor pool.  Luckily for all of us, we were here early enough to make use of it, thus fulfilling Alex's only major request of the day. I did some research on New Ulm, and I'm pretty excited to take a quick tour of it tomorrow.

Daily Stats:
We hit our 1,000 mile mark in Illinois, but I'm not sure where we are at now.
5 Cracker Barrels (Laura!)
1 toll plaza
Thousands of ears of corn
Dozens of cows
4 billion signs for fireworks
1 Order of the Poor Clares nunnery
and in New Ulm, 5 Lutheran churches for a city of 10,000-1 is Missouri, the others ELCA.



Monday, June 27, 2016

Day 2: Notre Dame and more

Day 2 had us going from Hudson OH to South Bend, Indiana.  South Bend was our first sightseeing stop, as one of DJ's favorite movies is Rudy, and he has sometimes admired the Fighting Irish football team.  We attempted to do a letterbox in the library at Notre Dame, but that didn't work out as planned. Oh well.  Walking to the library did find us staring at the The Word of Life mural as it overlooks a very pretty reflecting pool and outdoor park.  The World of Life mural is more commonly known as TouchDown Jesus, which seriously-that's exactly what it looks like.  Jesus with his arms in the air, forming the touchdown sign, overlooking the football stadium.  It's pretentious, hilarious and spectacular all at the same time.

We signed up for a 3pm tour and had an interesting time listening to John and Don, our learned tour guides.  Notre Dame has an insane amount of athletic facilities all in a concentrated area. (See that UConn?  No need to drive to Harford/East Harford/middle of nowhere ice rink) Their basketball arena is seriously impressive-huge, air conditioned, with a full restaurant and museum area wall of fame for ALL sports, not just football & basketball.  We were hurried through it during the tour, but headed back later for a closer look.  During the tour, Don & John discussed the varying successes of basketball, football and fencing and couldn't resist a few comments on certain other women's basketball teams, likely in response to Alex and DJ wearing their UConn hats.  Speaking of-on our way out, we saw a rather tall lady on the phone near the women's basketball offices.  Ruth Riley, in the flesh.  She said hi, but we didn't stop to chat-in fact, we did a double take shortly thereafter before we confirmed to ourselves, that yes, it was Ruth Riley.  I wonder if she noted the hats?

The stories and tour of the football stadium was pretty fun, the locker room is huge and the tales of the coaches and why they always play Navy were interesting as well.  DJ was way more fascinated than I was and was nearing a level of giddy that's usually reserved for superbowl wins and final four victories. After that we headed to dinner on campus at a cute little pub place, then settled in for a long drive to Illinois. We had originally planned on traveling through Iowa, but waze told us that going through Wisconsin and Minnesota was faster. So, here we are in Rockford, Illinois, home of the Rockford Peaches.  :)  Incidentally, traveling on the various turnpikes through Illinois is highway robbery-I lost count at 4 tolls, and of course, they don't take EZ-Pass. Also on the note of Illinois turnpikes-their rest stops/service plazas/travel areas are called oases.  I wonder who thought that up?


Daily stats: 
442 miles
3 states (Ohio, Indiana, Illinois) including 1 new one to add to my list. (Indiana)
Lots of horses, sheep and squirrels
1 storied university
Lots of construction traffic
Too many tolls
3 Notre Dame souvenirs (magnet, shirt & football. I'll let you all figure out who got 
what.)
Corn. Lots of corn.


Day 1: Madison,ct to Hudson,OH

Day 1!

Day 1 has come and gone. We left Madison, CT at 11:15 with my mom to head to pick up our rental car, which is an epically awesome 2016 Dodge grand caravan, whom Alex quickly named Van Dodge. Three of us were excited, the dog was not. Some how that little creature knew she was being left at Grandma and Grandpa's house, where she will be loved, spoiled and competing with a cat for lap time.

We quickly ran into some awesome traffic in New Haven, which we then attempted to escape by taking the Merritt parkway. Unfortunately for us, we still crawled at various points. Oh well.

We eventually reached New York and Waze detoured us through Tarrytown, where I gave an impromptu lecture on Washington Irving and the headless horseman.

Strangely enough, we basically flew over the tappan zee bridge and into New Jersey. After a quick pitstop, we hopped on i80 and headed into Pennsylvania. The good news: no traffic at all and driving through the Poconos and farm country was beautiful.  The bad: Pennsylvania is long!  As dinner time approached, exits were sparse. We ended up in a tiny town called Loganton, population 436. Right off the highway is Dar's Diner, which seats about 15. This place was adorable and they were so fascinated by Alex's telling of our planned adventures. It was the type of place where if it wasn't in the menu but they had the ingredients, sure they could whip it up. Everyone knew each other (except us), it was rather like being in Cheers.  Did I mention the awesome ice cream?

After dinner we drove drove drove to Ohio and stopped for the night in Hudson. The clarion hotel was basic, cheap enough and clean though. Apparently the free continental breakfast was eh, but whatever. Next stop, The university of Notre Dame.

Some tallies:
29 state license plates, plus Quebec and Ontario.
Horses in trailers, in fields, being ridden and one pulling an Amish family in a traditional buggy in Pennsylvania.
Cows in fields
Deer eating corn
Deer failing to cross the highway successfully. (10) 😞
Hundreds of silos.

Pictures to be added later.